Jewelry Through the Ages: A Guide to Retro Designs

Keywords: cocktail jewellery, cocktail ring, Bulgari, drop earrings

Retro jewellery, sometimes known as cocktail jewellery, refers to jewellery made between the late 1930s and the 1940s.

The Second World War affected everything, including fashion; millions of lives were lost, and world resources were exhausted. As a result, a new era of fashion emerged, characterized by bolder statements and greater practicality. As a result, retro jewelry began to emerge.

Why did jewellery change?

Following WWII, women had taken on a new, more powerful role in society. They once again performed jobs typically reserved for men before being deployed to war. The era's dress reflected these changes: the loose frivolity of the Art Deco era, as well as its Art Deco jewelry, gave way to fitted garments with solid structures.

The attire was modest and functional, but nevertheless quite feminine, with tight ideal forms. These heavier and more spectacular fashion trends necessitated bigger, bolder jewellery to match.

Furthermore, during the 1940s, most popular periodicals were readily available in color print. As a result, ads and fashion advice became infatuated with every color under the sun, and the exciting styles of women's jewelry began to pop right off the page.

Materials used in retro jewellery

Expensive resources such as gold and precious gemstones were in limited supply. Because of the conflict, there were few jewelry designers still in business. As a result, interest in synthetic gemstones and semi-precious stones grew.

The jewellery of this era was enormous and ostentatious, with the cocktail ring in particular gaining favor. Citrine, amethyst, aquamarine, peridot, tourmaline, and topaz were popular gemstones. Diamonds, rubies, and sapphires were still employed in numerous situations, although they were frequently used in pave settings to make the most of what was available.

Costume jewelry also gained popularity, with colorful, eye-catching designs made from plastic, glass, enamel, and even wood. Silver and enamel, in particular, allowed for strong, colorful motifs while remaining cost-effective.

Retro jewellery motifs and symbols

As you might expect, many retro jewellery motifs were patriotic, featuring national colours and symbols. 'Good luck' swallows, in particular, were extremely popular.

Cartier famously designed the 'Bird in a Cage' and placed it in their Rue de la Paix shop window as a subtle defiance to the occupying German forces. To commemorate France's freedom, Cartier reworked this piece to feature a 'Bird at the Door of Its Cage'.

Other artists, like Boucheron, created figure brooches in regional costumes, while Mellerio designed brooches showing troops, weaponry, and armored trucks. Bows, animals, and flowers were the most popular motifs.

Revolutionary pieces

People got concerned with multifunctionality during this time, and convertible jewelery became popular. This included necklaces that could be turned into bracelets with matching earrings, as well as the adaptable clip brooch. This brooch can be worn as a single brooch, double brooches, or connected to bracelets and necklaces.

Movement had also a significant effect on 1940s jewelry. Clever new effects, such as shaking petals and vibrating butterfly wings, brought bejeweled sculptures alive.

Famous Retro Jewellery Brands

Tiffany & Co., Cartier, and Bulgari are among the most iconic retro jewellery brands. Tiffany & Co. is well-known for its trademark jewel boxes and timeless designs, such as the French Beaded Necklace and the Paloma Picasso Collection. Cartier's collections are known for their elaborately detailed designs, which include magnificent items like the Panther Collection and Trinity de Cartier. Bulgari is known for its audacious designs, which mix rich stones and dramatic lines into anything from rings to necklaces.

Popular styles

Rings

Rings were large, bold, and massive. Bombe or boule rings were paved with tiny, colorful jewels.

Large citrines and aquamarines were popular, as seen in this massive 16.92 carat aquamarine ring.

Necklaces

Again, these were larger than in previous years. They were typically worn near the base of the neck rather than on longer chains.

Bib necklaces, made of mosaic-like gold or enamelled plaques with colored gemstones, became popular.

Bracelets

These were bold and bulky, typically made of gold chains, cuffs, and charm bracelets. They were additionally embellished with diamonds, charms, and vintage stick pins.

Brooches

Brooches were frequently created employing the techniques and motifs of the time. Fabric themes such as bows, ribbons, and lace were fashionable, crafted from gold and adorned with colored gemstones.

Realistic animals and flowers were brought to life with movement and color. Figurine brooches, such as the Van Cleef & Arpels ballerina brooch, were immensely fashionable right up to the 1950s.

Earrings

These were frequently embellished with dazzling jewels and wore clipped tight to the ear. Large individual gemstones were fashionable, as were drop earrings with intricate designs, such as these diamond pieces.